Saturday, 11 January 2014

No Pictures

It was a classi case of; "believe me, it was fun". Pulling out of the car park at Marcus's place a local asked "what'd you need a board for today?". On the face of it he was right. The cams looked average forecast was for 1-2ft.

But then sometimes you get a magic combination of conditions that negates all the technology. The forecasts and cameras, at the beach reports and updates from mates, don't quite capture it. Today was one of those days. Looked small and full from the beach but once in the water it all changed.

Somehow we manage to float to a peak where there were just three of us out, trading waves with Neil on a kneeboard and Marcus styling on the 70s throw-back twin fin. Restored to a new level of glory. Steep, surprisingly long and fast lefts with plenty of room to think and kick out a few turns. Dropping off the back of one Neil slid past "Don't make it look too goodyou'll attract the maggots".

A fun session and a great way to blow the desert dust out of the body after a few weeks out of the water. Loved it.

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