Monday, 20 January 2014

Worth a Look

Went to the beach fully intending to go for a swim and was greeting by 1-2ft glassy surf. A lovely peak to the South, trading waves with a few others. It was super peaky, wedging a tiny bit - just enough to give you speed on the take-off and then you're off. Got two magic waves. A long left with room for plenty of connected turns, and a shorter peaky one which gave a tantalising glimpse of a small barrel (no claims, just enough to squeeze in for a fraction of a second and be reminded of the sensation).

In all, nothing spectacular but still...glassy calm...only a few out...enough power to move about. That's all it really takes to feel the glow of a fun session.

No comments: