The local was looking a bit wobbly and uninviting so made a few detours to beaches around and ended up somewhere that's often avoided. Not famed for its waves, more for the likelihood of chaos. It lived up to half its reputation. The backend of the swell meant less grunt but there were still peaks. Lefts and rights. Some tucked in the corner, some middle beach. Water like Evian with shoals of fish visible, flying across the sand beneath.
Chaos was still there. Almost got run over by someone doing a last minute drop-in. Seemed like a genuine mistake and we both exited unscathed but in that sickening moment as you watch 7 ft of uncontrolled long board drop directly in front of you it felt like it could have taken a different path. Apologies abound whilst getting rolled around in the set that followed. Board managed to exit unharmed too. Think I'll take this spot off the future list - got lucky twice and don't want to push it.
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| Crystal clear water. Board shorts were in vogue. |
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| Corner rights. |
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