Dreaming

Unexpectedly fun surf. Mostly lefts, a little weak but plenty to get going and turning in. I'm sure the sunshine, clear blue, and boardshorts were helping. Spent much of the session dreaming of Fiji. Only three months away.

Worth a Look

Went to the beach fully intending to go for a swim and was greeting by 1-2ft glassy surf. A lovely peak to the South, trading waves with a few others. It was super peaky, wedging a tiny bit - just enough to give you speed on the take-off and then you're off. Got two magic waves. A long left with room for plenty of connected turns, and a shorter peaky one which gave a tantalising glimpse of a small barrel (no claims, just enough to squeeze in for a fraction of a second and be reminded of the sensation).

In all, nothing spectacular but still...glassy calm...only a few out...enough power to move about. That's all it really takes to feel the glow of a fun session.

Wobbly

It just didn't have it today. The swell was there, the first time in a while that there was a little bit more push behind it, but the wind, swell direction and bank combo just left it wonky and weak. Two waves made up the session. Behind that it was enjoying the sunshine. No bad thing.

No Pictures

It was a classi case of; "believe me, it was fun". Pulling out of the car park at Marcus's place a local asked "what'd you need a board for today?". On the face of it he was right. The cams looked average forecast was for 1-2ft.

But then sometimes you get a magic combination of conditions that negates all the technology. The forecasts and cameras, at the beach reports and updates from mates, don't quite capture it. Today was one of those days. Looked small and full from the beach but once in the water it all changed.

Somehow we manage to float to a peak where there were just three of us out, trading waves with Neil on a kneeboard and Marcus styling on the 70s throw-back twin fin. Restored to a new level of glory. Steep, surprisingly long and fast lefts with plenty of room to think and kick out a few turns. Dropping off the back of one Neil slid past "Don't make it look too good, you'll attract the maggots".

A fun session and a great way to blow the desert dust out of the body after a few weeks out of the water. Loved it.

Landlocked

A long way from the ocean. Or any life it feels. Desert stretching outwards hundreds of miles in every direction from the point at which my feet scrunch and crackle in the sand and dry stones. The contrast, with a life so tied to the sea and water, is comforting. The difference is silence.