Laird

Since the surf wasn't up to much and the weather was nice Mark kindly lent me his spare paddle board (not SUP - just to be clear) and we did the 6km paddle from my local beach to his. An amazing experience seeing the coast from a completely unique perspective. The thought of what lay beneath, looking up, did cross the mind more than once but the view was worth it. Stopping off in bays along the way to check out the reefs. Coming back in the swell had jumped a little so ended up having a bit of a tricky final stretch back into the beach.

Post paddle board checked the local beach and the swell was up to 2 - 3ft so headed out for a few hours. Needed a nap in the afternoon but other duties prevailed.

Momentary

Had about ten minutes to take a few shots before the rain descended. In fact, this has been a pattern for the past few weeks. A quick surf fitted in amongst other things going on (on this day a fun left-hander at this usually crappy beach break as a heavy NE swell pushed in).

Inflated

After what feels like over six weeks of really small surf, mostly too small to be bothered with, a new swell was forecast for the weekend. Anticipation rising; 2-3ft and clean on Saturday, bumping to 5-6ft Sunday.

Keeping it short, it was an ugly mess. No banks, tide pulling it in all sorts of directions. Ultimately the wrong side of frustrating despite more size to it than there's been for a while. Floated in after two. Not worthy of a photo even (screen grab from the surf cam. makes it look better than it was).

Usually any time in the ocean is all upside but the differential between forecast and reality proved to be too much for even the most optimistic soul. Hopefully tomorrow will be better but ratcheting down the expectation meter. Just in case.