Australia Day

No photos for this one. Surprisingly good waves despite a moderate NNE cutting into it. Surfed at the North end to stay out the wind a bit. Evil shorebreak that was chewing up swimmers and sand though getting rolled around in just a shortie meant it didn't feel quite so threatening as mid-winter. One guy was out with a hand plane and making good use of it, catching waves from the outside all the way into the shore. Have only seen people use those at The Wedge and Hawaii before so it was a novelty. Though in the Summer it seems anything goes; longboards, yellow and blue foamies, knee boards, surf skis, rescue skis, fish, boards that look like eggs (and surf with about as much finesse as one). With the recent flat spell finally broken they're all out.

Filthy

As the weeks of relatively dry weather pass by the dirt, dust, and general detritus of day-to-day living gathers on the sidewalks and open concrete spaces. Until the heavy rains collects it all up, pushes it into the storm water drains and out into the ocean. At the beach this made itself known at the North end where a stinking streak of filthy brown delineating the point where the outlet drain fed into the sea. If you're from Europe isn't something you're probably used to, many of the waves being more remote and not sat on the edge of a significant population. Coupled with relatively frequent rains keeping the streets free of heavy accumulations of grit and muck big wash pits are rarer.

We started out South of it, mouth closed, head held up to avoid it sneaking into the delicate soft tissue of your nose or ears. Once passed this it was out to where the water was clear blue, with very peaky 3-4ft waves. Glassy smooth with the heavy and persistent rain dampening what little offshore there was.

Heavy shorebreak so it was a sharp drop, one or two moves on a pristine face, and then kick out before an inside gurgling sand machine (mixed in with a brown, seaweed, tennis ball, and who knows what else, soup). Really fun waves, well worth a paddle and not too many out. Rain was far too heavy to get the camera out so you'll just have to trust me on this one.

Heading back now to douse the ear, nose and throat with something that contains alcohol. Probably too early for a beer so will need to raid the meds. cabinet.

Big swell kicking in tomorrow so will be cooking rice or finding a less hectic beach to float at.

Washing Machine

Trip away this weekend in the amazing Killcare region. Plenty of surf options and a small amount of swell but not really surfable with a straight into the beach close-out so opted for sitting in the washing machine zone.