Filthy

As the weeks of relatively dry weather pass by the dirt, dust, and general detritus of day-to-day living gathers on the sidewalks and open concrete spaces. Until the heavy rains collects it all up, pushes it into the storm water drains and out into the ocean. At the beach this made itself known at the North end where a stinking streak of filthy brown delineating the point where the outlet drain fed into the sea. If you're from Europe isn't something you're probably used to, many of the waves being more remote and not sat on the edge of a significant population. Coupled with relatively frequent rains keeping the streets free of heavy accumulations of grit and muck big wash pits are rarer.

We started out South of it, mouth closed, head held up to avoid it sneaking into the delicate soft tissue of your nose or ears. Once passed this it was out to where the water was clear blue, with very peaky 3-4ft waves. Glassy smooth with the heavy and persistent rain dampening what little offshore there was.

Heavy shorebreak so it was a sharp drop, one or two moves on a pristine face, and then kick out before an inside gurgling sand machine (mixed in with a brown, seaweed, tennis ball, and who knows what else, soup). Really fun waves, well worth a paddle and not too many out. Rain was far too heavy to get the camera out so you'll just have to trust me on this one.

Heading back now to douse the ear, nose and throat with something that contains alcohol. Probably too early for a beer so will need to raid the meds. cabinet.

Big swell kicking in tomorrow so will be cooking rice or finding a less hectic beach to float at.