Just one pica-point from perfect today with a solid East swell and offshore winds. For the fussy amongst us the wind was a bit on the wrong side of brisk which made take-offs tricky and there were more than a few (very) late drops. Some made it, some ended up getting rolled around in the ocean, boards got broken, and people got humbled.
Injury has kept me landlocked this past week so there's an extra helping of photos and, in a few hours when I get around to editing it, some footage (Charlie was the stand-out on the vid. with three back-to-back barrels on the corner reef). Pete was doing his best to get tenderised; only caught a couple of his waves and both were just in time for getting pole-axed and gently pulled through the rocks.
Had the bomb sound effect all lined up ready for Marcus on a crazy-late take-off that he side-slipped down into, making it in legendary style (this is also on the vid that I'll post later tonight). However, it'd be a shame to miss an opportunity to dust off the effect so here's the vid. of his spaceman free-fall from a similar swell last year*. Photos from today below the video.
* no apologies for the repetition. The man can surf so these moments of re-engaging with gravity warrant attention.
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| Marcus and the troops going out to do battle |
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| In the eye of the storm |
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| Seagull sweep |
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| There were an insane number of these types of waves |
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| The sets weren't mucking about |
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| Tucked in |
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| Wide view of the point |
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| Stacked up |
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| Big open face |
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| Pre-humbling |
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| About to get pole-axed or slotted? |
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