Sunday, 29 September 2013

Chaos

The beach is usually busy but never super crowded and generally it's orderly. For whatever reason or combination of conditions this wasn't the case today. Total chaos. The pictures don't really do the quality of the surf or the anarchy any justice. The surf was a fun 2ft, occasionally but infrequently 3ft. with a really good peak - wind had swung on onshore by them tie I floated out took some pictures. The line-up was packed, I counted over 40 people on the one peak and manners had been left on the shoreline. It wasn't unusually to have three people dropping in on you in front. Got 3 - 4 waves unmolested but the rest were write offs. If everyone had taken their turn you might have been waiting a while but at least you would have got a clean run of it.

Lifeguards were kept busy
Even on the clear ones it was a game of dodgeums
A glorious day so kind of
difficult to get too up-tight about it
Lots of sharing going on

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