Double Rainbow

Well, almost. A double foam ball on a single wave? Surprisingly enough there weren't any takers for this outside monster. Novelty spots the only option on this day. For this that know this spot, it sits very close to a shark breeding ground. In one of the shots you can just see the sign in the foreground that tells you this fact. Just by the jump off spot. Keeps the concentration sharp.

Wild ocean but long rides for the patient

Steep take off and went a bit fat on the inside.

Double foam ball!

Shark breeding ground.

Happy Easter

The swell keeps on coming. Solid waves on Easter Friday (video below), by Saturday it had jumped to the point that most beaches were closed, 10ft sets rolling in, up over the sand and into the scrubland. Very few around, just the lifeguards keeping everyone out of the water, and no-one out in the surf except at the odd novelty spot to the South which was a bit wind affected and lumpy.

Sandpits

Some very solid waves coming through yesterday evening and this was after the swell had calmed a little. Windswept and, frankly, looking pretty ugly. There were a few rides happening but a lot of carnage in between. Cross-chop, backwash, peaks made heavier with rippling sand. It looked like hard work. A few crew were getting some sold waves.

Styling in the sand monster

It was a whole lot of fun until this happened

This guy was catching all the best ones

An uncomfortable position to be in

On the way back home

Moonrise over heavy seas

A big bottom turn on a solid wave

Seen a lot more of these types of boards out recently.

south by south-east

VIDEO: opted to stay on the beach today. Made the mistake of going surfing straight after the rain and a seawater bug found its way in. Some wild surf out there today.

windswept

VIDEO: a short film of a windswept day a few weeks back.

Boom!

Autumn has arrived with a very bold statement. After a few weeks of fun waves that characterise the wobble of a shift in season, Autumn has decided it's time to make itself felt. Steep climbing charts from nearly zero swell to six meters in just a few hours. Good job it happened overnight otherwise a few would have most likely been caught out. Heading out to look later and surf if the more exotic locations are up and working.

A Slight Breeze

Gale force cross-shoares making for ugly peaks. Still the odd one worth catching. The lefts especially which were being blown wide open by the cross-shore. Had an hour or so out in the water and about 20 minutes at the beach shower trying to tease out the buckets of sand that had been rammed into the wetsuit.

Laird

Since the surf wasn't up to much and the weather was nice Mark kindly lent me his spare paddle board (not SUP - just to be clear) and we did the 6km paddle from my local beach to his. An amazing experience seeing the coast from a completely unique perspective. The thought of what lay beneath, looking up, did cross the mind more than once but the view was worth it. Stopping off in bays along the way to check out the reefs. Coming back in the swell had jumped a little so ended up having a bit of a tricky final stretch back into the beach.

Post paddle board checked the local beach and the swell was up to 2 - 3ft so headed out for a few hours. Needed a nap in the afternoon but other duties prevailed.

Momentary

Had about ten minutes to take a few shots before the rain descended. In fact, this has been a pattern for the past few weeks. A quick surf fitted in amongst other things going on (on this day a fun left-hander at this usually crappy beach break as a heavy NE swell pushed in).

Inflated

After what feels like over six weeks of really small surf, mostly too small to be bothered with, a new swell was forecast for the weekend. Anticipation rising; 2-3ft and clean on Saturday, bumping to 5-6ft Sunday.

Keeping it short, it was an ugly mess. No banks, tide pulling it in all sorts of directions. Ultimately the wrong side of frustrating despite more size to it than there's been for a while. Floated in after two. Not worthy of a photo even (screen grab from the surf cam. makes it look better than it was).

Usually any time in the ocean is all upside but the differential between forecast and reality proved to be too much for even the most optimistic soul. Hopefully tomorrow will be better but ratcheting down the expectation meter. Just in case.

That's New

The local was looking a bit wobbly and uninviting so made a few detours to beaches around and ended up somewhere that's often avoided. Not famed for its waves, more for the likelihood of chaos. It lived up to half its reputation. The backend of the swell meant less grunt but there were still peaks. Lefts and rights. Some tucked in the corner, some middle beach. Water like Evian with shoals of fish visible, flying across the sand beneath.

Chaos was still there. Almost got run over by someone doing a last minute drop-in. Seemed like a genuine mistake and we both exited unscathed but in that sickening moment as you watch 7 ft of uncontrolled long board drop directly in front of you it felt like it could have taken a different path. Apologies abound whilst getting rolled around in the set that followed. Board managed to exit unharmed too. Think I'll take this spot off the future list - got lucky twice and don't want to push it.

Crystal clear water. Board shorts were in vogue.

Corner rights.

Breakpoint

After what has felt like the longest spell without real swell, the flatness is broken. It was bigger today but the weekend's still got some juice to work with.

Torn

Wind ruffled waves, a stiff breeze from the SSW adding texture to waves with this 'not quite offshore or cross-shore' wind direction. Plenty of fun waves around; long lefts pushing against the wind. Shorter, punchier rights. Stayed out too long, the SPF50 no match for the noonday sun, pushed aside to burn the skin. An infrequent experience but a steady reminder. Back to the zinc.

Lefts - the pick of the day

Outside peaks

Dreaming

Unexpectedly fun surf. Mostly lefts, a little weak but plenty to get going and turning in. I'm sure the sunshine, clear blue, and boardshorts were helping. Spent much of the session dreaming of Fiji. Only three months away.

Worth a Look

Went to the beach fully intending to go for a swim and was greeting by 1-2ft glassy surf. A lovely peak to the South, trading waves with a few others. It was super peaky, wedging a tiny bit - just enough to give you speed on the take-off and then you're off. Got two magic waves. A long left with room for plenty of connected turns, and a shorter peaky one which gave a tantalising glimpse of a small barrel (no claims, just enough to squeeze in for a fraction of a second and be reminded of the sensation).

In all, nothing spectacular but still...glassy calm...only a few out...enough power to move about. That's all it really takes to feel the glow of a fun session.

Wobbly

It just didn't have it today. The swell was there, the first time in a while that there was a little bit more push behind it, but the wind, swell direction and bank combo just left it wonky and weak. Two waves made up the session. Behind that it was enjoying the sunshine. No bad thing.

No Pictures

It was a classi case of; "believe me, it was fun". Pulling out of the car park at Marcus's place a local asked "what'd you need a board for today?". On the face of it he was right. The cams looked average forecast was for 1-2ft.

But then sometimes you get a magic combination of conditions that negates all the technology. The forecasts and cameras, at the beach reports and updates from mates, don't quite capture it. Today was one of those days. Looked small and full from the beach but once in the water it all changed.

Somehow we manage to float to a peak where there were just three of us out, trading waves with Neil on a kneeboard and Marcus styling on the 70s throw-back twin fin. Restored to a new level of glory. Steep, surprisingly long and fast lefts with plenty of room to think and kick out a few turns. Dropping off the back of one Neil slid past "Don't make it look too good, you'll attract the maggots".

A fun session and a great way to blow the desert dust out of the body after a few weeks out of the water. Loved it.

Landlocked

A long way from the ocean. Or any life it feels. Desert stretching outwards hundreds of miles in every direction from the point at which my feet scrunch and crackle in the sand and dry stones. The contrast, with a life so tied to the sea and water, is comforting. The difference is silence.

SummerTime [video]

As I flick through Howard's Fisher Viking blog, set on the North Somerset and Devon coast, wind chill rising and the darkest part of Winter approaching, it felt like the right time to finally sit down for a few hours to edit the footage from last Summer. This is around the same time I caught up with Jonny, Aggro, and Kath and got some great surf down the SW. When it's good, there's not many places I'd rather be surfing with mates. Moreover, and more importantly, at a time when things were incredibly hard, it was a real boost. This one's for you guys. Summer will be back. In the meantime, enjoy those long, long lines and epic Winter days.

Blackened

Dark skies and a flat ocean is all that greets us today. The recent rain means shredded seaweed lines the shorebreak with a heavy brown, sucking at your legs as you wade out. Only good for a swim today though even that brings its own refreshment.

Selfie

Seagull, waddling in from stage left. Pauses, waits for the surf cam. to finish its rotation. Looks squarely at the lens. Snap! Not certain how it intended to retrieve the image. If this is you, drop me a DM and I'll mail it to you.

Yoyos

Filming today felt like four sessions in one. Comfortable two footers intersected with 4-5ft bombs. Click through to see the video.

Poker Face

Long lulls between the sets. Ocean looks manageable. Tricky shore break methinks. North or South of the flags? More crowded North, not quite such a good peak to the South. Opt for the smaller crowd. Take a running jump at the shore break. Get stuffed. Sand politely shoved into the wetsuit from both directions, down the neck and up the legs. That’s going to feel like a free exfoliation later. Make it past the churning inside and there’s half a football pitch of flatness between the inside and pack. They seem a long way out. Paddle on through the ocean; a crisp turquoise blue, light offshore.

Out the back, floating in what feels like a no mans land. There’s a high proportion of blue and yellows; foam boards without the fibreglass, the long lulls and smooth ocean inciting them out. Many look a little steely faced. Tight lipped for the most part. A twitch on the horizon, the pack’s spooked and starts to paddle. Hold ground and wait, can’t see anything yet.

A set rolls through. Not pitching but a good size, the top end of 4ft. A huddle gets washed through, duck dive and re-surface. I feel like Luke in the trash compacter, surrounded by spluttering and unidentified objects. Sitting further out makes more sense now. Float in a spot beyond the crowd and wait for the bigger ones. Smooth, long lefts. Faster, glassy walled rights. A two hour session, rinse and repeat until the tide fills it up and its time to race through the foam and get reacquainted with the shore break. It goes much more smoothly second time around.

 

 

 

 

Dusk

With the recent run of shark attacks along the coast I probably won't be doing this for a while.

A Bit of an Edge

The wind was into it a bit and water still nipped at the ankles, reminding you that Spring had only just left us. The water was a pepper shaker of dotted garbs; the full suited, shorties and rash vest tops mixed amongst the board shorted and bikinis. Look one way and you'd think you were in Spring, look the other and bare skin revealed Summer is upon us.

Summer Sunday in Spring

It's been hot. Near on 10 degrees C hotter than usual. It's been windy, as the heat rises it draws a searing wind across the inner desert into the city and on to the beach. Boardshorter optimists are out in the water but they're not lasting long as the sea hasn't caught up with the atmosphere yet, still hovering at a level that needs a full suit for the less thermic amongst us (like myself). Easy decision to head down to the beach though; sun's out, 2ft swell, offshore wind.

The odd 3-footer sliding through.

Optimists were out in board shorts

Packed

Wind funnelling rights

Nice sunset

Watching. Waiting. Go do something constructive. Check the surf cams again. Wait. Check again.

Eventually the swell past the threshold point from a weak and sloppy 1ft in the morning to a surfable and fun looking 1-2ft (chest to shoulder high) near dusk. The car was already packed up (of course) so it was out the door and on the road in less than five minutes. Big G would be proud.

Caught plenty of fun lefts and although they were still a bit wobbly at least there was a peak and decent rides; it was good to get a few turns in and heft the working week out of me with a few hours of paddling.

Was it worth it? Sure. Besides, after crouching over the laptop like a hawk waiting for a mouse to emerge from the safety of its burrow, there really isn't any other way to answer that question.

Rest of the week looks small.

Surfing, UK-style

It's been several years since I've surfed decent waves in the UK; although I've been back a few times I've never really been there long enough to have the right combination of conditions to get great surf. Back in July I was there for six weeks as my Dad was unwell and had the chance to catch up with Jonny, Kath, and Ruairi; three great friends from way back. Photos and video are in-line at the bottom of the post.

The conditions; light offshore, 3 - 4ft of swell, bright blue skies (25 degrees C). For those unfamiliar with UK surf, getting this trifecta is unreasonably rare. If the surf's up, it's often accompanied by light drizzle. If the weather's perfect the ocean looks like your local pool. We lucked out. Even more so that this combination fell on a Saturday so that the weekend warriors could enjoy it.

Although it had been at least five years or more since I'd had been back when there was good surf in the UK we fell straight into the pattern we used to repeat throughout Uni. and beyond when conditions were good (more often than you'd expect). It goes something like this;

• Wake at dawn. Even though you are definitely going because you've made the mental commitment to head to the beach, you still check the wave buoys and wind forecast one last time.
• Travel down an increasingly narrowing set of roads, from three lane motorway, to dual carriageway, down to single lane, unpaved track. The countryside opening up around you in a patchwork quilt of different coloured meadows.
• Arrive, in dribs and drabs, at a pre-determined meeting point. Check the surf; often involving a hike of varying heftiness to get sight of the ocean.
• Run back up the hill as the adrenaline kicks in. Get changed in record time.
• Throughout the session catch up on news, call each other into waves, laugh at the inevitable wipe outs or mild crunchings that your mates go through, chat like it was only yesterday that you saw each other rather than a few weeks or years.
• Surf until either Option (a), you are too cold to move; (b) you are too tired to move [options often depend on season, (a) for Autumn / Winter, (b) for Spring / Summer].
• Re-fuel. Eat. Then eat some more. On this trip it was a Cornish pasty (x2), a litre of water, a Mars Bar, and an oat flap jack.
• Chat, catch up on life, rest. Make a decision on where to go next. In this case it was a spot that I hadn't been to for a long while so it took some finding.
• Tramp along a path with all your gear on your back for 30 minutes to find a little gem of a reef break that's rarely surfed because of its remoteness.
• Drag on a wet wetsuit, all the time repeating the mantra, "a wet wetsuit warms-up quicker" as the cold dankness of it slowly touches every part of you as you drag it up your body.
• Surf until, either (a)....  you know the drill on this one.
• Crawl out, desperately trying to make sure that in your exhausted state you don't get mangled in the shore-break.
• Walk back 30 minutes to the car, chatting about the session and the waves you caught. In this case an amazing day and some much needed support from mates in a really difficult time.
• Slowly pack the car and say final goodbyes before heading off in various and different directions towards lives that exist in different parts of the country or world but remain always connected.
• On the journey home drive with the window down, letting the warm air filter past you, surrounding yourself with nothing more than the low buzz of a travelling car and the occasional zip-zip of vehicles heading in the other direction. Reflecting on what an awesome day it's been.

Recently, back in Australia, I'd almost dropping into a pattern of treating going for a surf like a game of squash. Get up, check the cameras, looks good, go surf for 1 1/2 hrs., get back in time for breakfast. It's good to be reminded that you should try and squeeze every last ounce out of good surf (and probably life in general).

Moreover, and more importantly, at a time when things have been incredibly hard it was great to know that these fantastic moments can still exist and continue even when things are so difficult. It's been a regular boost when looking back.

First session; stacked.	Big blue skies, open fields. Tony lanes.
The car-park.	Changing room, UK-style/
The A-frame, still just visible after the tide has filled the spot in.	Walking back through the mud

A video of surfing in the UK that spans many years and multiple seasons.