Monday, 1 October 2012

You should have been here 20 minutes ago

The swell arrived but with it came a fickle rip, and a horde from who knows where. The downside was plenty of paddling around, arms aching, fighting the rip, moving from spot to spot as the banks collapsed and re-appeared.

The good news - it was good enough to stay in for three hours as the mystery current shifted back and forth, spraying beginners and the uninitiated, into corners both North and South of a left peak which started off fairly fat but got into its stride as it hit an inner bank and ramped up to be very fast, very quickly. 0 - 60 in 4 seconds.

It was worth a paddle but by the time I got the camera out the wind had turned it a little bit junky. It was better when I was in the water. Honest.

Running man

Pulling up a lot of sand in the corner

Wedgy lefts

Decepticon - this looks like a big chunk of spray being thrown off but it's mostly lip crumble. Worth framing though.

Floating off the top

Finding air amongst the white water

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