| If you surf round that area you'll recognise it straight away. It's a dramatic spot, held between two sets of steep cliffs that concentrate the swell inwards into a wedge that makes something out of nothing. Have a look at the vid - swell's no more than 2ft but it pushes it well beyond that on some sets. |
A snipper of sessions at this spot;
- Surfing it in Summer when it'd turn long travelled but fairly small swells into a fun afternoon tucked in under the cliff.
- Creeping past the campsite at dawn to avoid unsettling the slumbering crowd so you'd get it to yourselves for at least an hour or two.
- Watching black spots dance around my head as the second wave of the set on a very solid day rolled decided to hold me as an underwater hostage for a little bit longer.
- Jonny making the mistake of bailing is board rather than duck-diving and watching the lip cut his board up into three pieces. Pete had a similar experience.
Not keen on making it more known than it already is so if you're interested in finding it have an explore around the area.
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